Forsyth County commissioners voted 7-0 to amend the county code that covers recognizing, registering, owning and dealing with dangerous dogs, as well as shortening the holding period for unlicensed dogs and cats that are brought to the shelter. The amendment defines a dangerous dog as an animal that when unprovoked, inflicts severe injury on public or private property; that kills another domestic animal or livestock while off the owner’s property; or has been declared potentially dangerous and goes on to bite, attack or endanger another person or domestic animal or livestock. That decision is made after someone files a written complaint or dog-bite report, if police or animal control officers identify such behavior, or if the dog has been deemed dangerous in another county, Jennings said. New owners of dangerous or potentially dangerous dogs must be notified of the dog’s status by its former owner. read more

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A. Grignard

1) Why should I crate train my dog?

Crate Training is the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Have you ever seen a dog under a table, chair or bed? The reason is that dogs naturally want to seek shelter, even in a house. If you don’t provide it, they will create it themselves in an effort to feel safe and secure. A crate serves as a den for your dog.

2) How does crate training work?

Like babies, puppies cannot control their bladders until they mature (usually between 3 and 6 months). Dogs have a natural instinct to avoid eliminating in their dens. Therefore, confining your puppy in his crate for the proper amount of time encourages him to “hold it” until you take him outside for a walk. Pet Dreams offers Free Crate Training Tips with more step-by-step details.

3) What about housebreaking older dogs?

It is never too late to crate train your dog! The number one reason dogs end up in shelters is behavior problems. Crate training, at any age, can help break bad habits and solve most of these problems.

4) How long do I need to use the crate?

Crates are not just for training- they are good for the lifetime of your dog. By providing a crate for your dog, you are in essence providing him with his own bedroom. Crates are especially important for older dogs that use it to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday family life, which often includes small children or other pets that may harass them.

5) How safe is crate training?

Dog crates are the best housetraining tool available. They provide a room for your dog while protecting your home furnishings from damage. However, even a crate isn’t an absolute safe harbor for your pet. As per crate manufacturers warnings, you should always remove standard collars before placing your dog in a crate. Otherwise, your dog is at risk for possible strangulation if his collar or ID tags become caught in the crate’s bars. Pet Dreams’ Cratewear bumpers are the only bumpers made high enough to help prevent collar strangulation and other crate-related injuries.

6) I was told that dogs like their crates, so why do I have to force mine inside?

There are many reasons to not enjoy a bare metal dog cage.

• Comfort: When dogs lie down in their crates, they are leaning up against wire bars, which can be very irritating. Crate bumpers and pads, like Cratewear, provide the comfort your dog will appreciate.
• Security: Wire crates leave your dog exposed on all sides. Crate covers provide den-like security.
• Location: Separating your dog from the rest of the family can add stress. Dogs are social animals, so the ideal location is a room full of activity. Your dog will enjoy his new room while still being part of the family. At night the bedroom is an ideal place for a crate so your dog will feel the security of being close to you.
• Time: Confining him in his crate for excessive periods of time will be a negative experience for your dog. After housebreaking your dog, we recommend removing the door from the crate so he can enjoy his den any time he chooses.

7) What can I do to make my dog’s crate more appealing?

• Use Cratewear to make his crate safe & comfortable
• Put appropriate toys and treats inside the crate, which will entice him to go in on his own.
• Feeding your dog in his crate can develop a positive association with it.
• Give your puppy lots of praise when he enters the crate.

How do I stop my dog from whining or barking the crate?

Again, make sure the crate is in a good location. Veterinarians and trainers recommend covering the crate to give your dog the privacy he needs to feel secure. If your dog can see you, he’ll want to be with you outside the crate. Crate covers lower the number of distractions your dog sees, which reduces barking and stress. Note: Dogs that suffer from separation anxiety should not be crated. If you feel your dog is suffering from separation anxiety and is showing clinical signs, please avoid crating him until speaking to a professional.

9) What’s in it for me?

Dog crates give your dog a place he can claim as his territory. Providing your dog with a comfortable room of his own will help keep him off your furniture. In addition to the safety and comfort benefits for your dog, Cratewear will enhance your wire crate to fit your decor, making the crate an attractive addition to any room. All of this results in a more positive training experience for you and your pooch!

© 2005 Pet Dreams - Pet Dreams® and Cratewear® are registered trademarks. All rights reserved.

About the Author

Visit http://www.petdreams.com for our complete line of dog crate covers, crate pads, and pet beds. Our site also contains more crate training tips, FAQs, articles, and forums!

Dozens of dachshunds brought short legs, long ears and high hopes to LoDo on Sunday to participate in a weiner-dog race, the first Long Dog Derby. Pooches with names like Daisy the Destroyer, Lightning Lilly, Black Pearl and Frank the Tank sometimes dashed, and occasionally wandered in dazed confusion, across a fenced race track. Daisy May, a 6-month-old brown dachshund with a sharp snout and gentle eyes, sped through her paces in the “Little Links” event for puppies younger than 1 year old. The dog had never raced before, but she wasn’t thrown off by the crowd and hoopla, said Daisy May’s owner, Loreli Walker, 29, a Denver nurse. The event included a costume contest, won by Oscar Mayer Weiner, a 6-year-old miniature long-haired dachshund who was dressed as a skunk. Steve Ballas, owner of Steve’s Snappin’ Dogs, a hot-dog stand that was a race sponsor, said the event was so successful that next year it will be a stand-alone event. read more

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Adam G. Katz

Dear Mr. Katz:

I have two cocker spaniels that are one year apart. The red and white female (Cassie)is almost two and spayed. The buff male (Peanut) is just one 1 years old and neutered. Peanut was rescued from a cocker shelter in October of 1999. He is incredibly devoted, a very good listener and quick learner. He is the ideal dog as he is very eager to please. Cassie on the other hand is the most independent and stubborn dog I have ever encountered (you’ve probably seen worse). She used to only listen to commands when she wanted but I have put a stop to that. I have had numerous problems with her dominant tendencies but have come a long way. She now views me as the alpha and only displays aggression when she is in pain — specifically when I brush her. She has been diagnosed with allergies, is on allergy shots and has bad skin. This is not my problem though as I think I can work through this one with the use of the training collar.

ADAM INTERJECTS: It’s very difficult to correct pain-response aggression. It’s more of a reaction than anything else. Use the muzzle and restrain the dog when you need to give her shots. Other times (just so that she doesn’t build a negative association to the muzzle) put it on, take it off, and then give her a cookie. Do this at random times.

BETH CONTINUES: Cassie displays a lot of dominance aggression toward Peanut. She growls when he tries to pick up a bone near her and when they play (or fight) she will “hump” him. I always feed her first, give her treats first, pet her first but Peanut just doesn’t seem to get it. He will walk through the door before Cassie but after me. He is always one head length ahead of her when we walk outside. Further, I think he is trying to challenge her because the playing time more recently has turned into fighting. It’s more barking than anything — to date there has been no blood. However, Cassie usually is on top of him, pinning him to the ground, and he lets out this barking/yelping noise when she releases, he goes right after her again until I break it up.

She also displays the same aggression toward the cat. If the cat comes into her “area” when she is comfortable in front of the fire or if the cat even walks by one of her bones she goes crazy. She’ll chase the cat away with growling and quickly running after her.

ADAM INTERJECTS AGAIN: You can correct this behavior. She will learn not to chase the cat in the house.

BETH CONTINUES: So here’s the big question. What do I do? Do I continue to treat Cassie as the next in the pack? Do I let them fight it out? Do I continue to scold her for chasing the cat? HELP!

Any advice you can offer will be much appreciated. Your book is great by the way….

Regards,
Beth

Dear Beth:

Thanks for the question.

There is ONE big point you’re not conceptualizing: You can only affect your relationship with each dog. You can be dominant to both dogs. Or you can be dominant to only one dog. Or you can be viewed as the Omega dog (the most submissive one) by both dogs.

However, you cannot control how your dogs view each other.

This is a topic I’ve written about in past issues of my e-zine. I’m going to reprint it for your benefit:

A subscriber wrote: “Thanks, Adam. I think I found the answer. ‘We determine who will be the alpha dog.’
Correct? “

My reply:

“No, no no!

You cannot do this! It’s impossible!!!

The dogs’ temperaments are inherent. Only you can determine if you’re dominant to the other dogs, by being MORE DOMINANT. But you cannot work it out for them.

You can control the dogs’ behaviors and not allow any scuffles if you:

-are the alpha dog in the pack. and you have voice control.

But as soon as you leave the dogs together– unsupervised– and go out for dinner… all bets are off. The dominant one will still be the dominant one.

Think of taking a group of four kids.

Kid#1 will grow up to be a Navy Seal, and then an Admiral.
Kid#2 will grow up to be a fierce criminal defense attorney.
Kid#3 will grow up to be a middle management executive for a large firm.
Kid#4: will grow up to be a peace activist and a socialist.

Now, when you leave the house every day for work, you may say, “Kid#4… you’re in charge.” And as long as you’re around, Kid#4 may get the privileges of being the “so-called” top dog.

But as soon as you leave…

It’s going to be a given that kid#3 and kid#4 are going to be the bottom dogs, and kid #1 and kid#2 will scrap-it-out to see who is REALLY the “top dog.” Their genetics (and to some extent, upbringing– depending upon their age) determines this. But it is the toughest kid who will become the group leader.

Even though kid #2 may be fairly tough in his own right, he will test kid#1… but will ultimately lose… as kid#1 is too tough.

Now, if kid#1 gets sick and has to stay in bed, then kid#2 becomes the new kid#1.

In other words, the “Alpha dog.”

Until you get home. Then you’re the alpha dog, and he becomes the beta dog.

Get it?

Beth, as far as you’ve described your dogs’ interactions… it doesn’t sound to me like you’ve got a problem. It sounds just like play, or perhaps some dominance scuffles. However, without seeing the dogs in person it’s impossible to tell for sure.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below):
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

SAGUENAY, QUEBEC, Sep 19, 2008 (MARKET WIRE via COMTEX) — The management of Arianne Resources Inc. The terms of the deal specify that Arianne acquires 100% of Vantex 23 cells from the Black Dog property as well as Vantex 11 cells of the Penaroya-Brouillan property,in exchange of 300,000 common shares of Arianne. The Black Dog property is polymetalic and comprises 117 cells covering an area of 6,200 hectares located south of the Opinaca reservoir, in Quebec. The Penaroya-Brouillan property comprises 11 claims located south of the Massicotte project, owned by Arianne, 15 km east of the Detour Lake Mine. Arianne Acquires the 50% Interest of Vantex Resources in the Black Dog and Penaroya-Brouillan Properties - MarketWatch Intraday data provided by Interactive Data Real Time Services , a division of Interactive Data Corp. Historical and current end-of-day data provided by Interactive Data Pricing and Reference Data . read more

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NHL ?09 an exceptional update . Unauthorized distribution, transmission or republication strictly prohibited. read more

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Margaret Svete

Toys are fun both for our dogs and us. Lucky for us there are endless choices.

But did you know how important toys are for your dogs - puppies especially.

Toys play a great role in the emotional and mental development of puppies. They also act as solutions for inappropriate chewing, boredom, and separation anxiety. In fact most dog trainers recommend that new puppy owners buy lots of toys for the newest member of the family.

Variety is the spice of life. Most experts recommend buying different kinds of toys for your dog so that you can discover which ones he really likes.

You might be surprised with the answers. Berry, my 95 pound German Shepherd just loves cuddling up his stuffed animals. Who would have thought!

Trainers and behaviorists recommend that their clients have three sets of toys.

Primary toys are your dog’s favorite. Leave these out for your dog when your not around. This helps reduce separation anxiety because your dog associates you leaving with his getting his favorite toy.

Secondary toys are the toys to have out when you are home. Be sure to pick up the primary toys.

And finally the third set of toys is used to rotate with the the first set. Trainers recommend swapping toys every 3 days or so. This helps keep your dog interested in all his toys.

And always choose toys wisely. Try to buy toys that match your dog’s size. And always make sure there are no dangerous small pieces that your dog can chew loose and swallow or worse yet - choke on.

If you’re interested here are a few of the gang’s favorite toys:

http://www.allaboutdogcare.com/favorite-toys.html

Margaret Svete, best-selling author, television and radio personality, and dog rescuer helps dog owners discover easy dog care tips. Subscribe to the premiere dog care ezine, The Dog Enquirer, at http://www.allaboutdogcare.com

After a year of seemingly endless independent bookstore closings, it’s nice to have occasion to celebrate the continued success of one. Dog Eared Books is having a “cocktail soiree” to mark 16 years of serving the Mission District’s used-book needs. In Memoriam All literary flags at half-mast for David Foster Wallace. David Foster Wallace All literary flags at half-mast, rightfully so. read more

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Moses Chia

Fleas belong to the insect order Siphonaptera. They are common pests and may attack many mammals, including man. They can be a year round problem because they infest not only pets but also the home of the owner. Because of this, treatment of the pet alone may only temporarily solve a flea infestation.

Although many species of fleas feed primarily on one type of animal, the common cat and dog flea will readily take blood from a variety of animals, including man. Flea infestations of pets and their homes will most likely involve the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis and occasionally the dog flea, C. canis.

Fleas are small (2 to 4 mm in length), brownish to black insects which are characteristically flattened from side to side. Adults are wingless and capable of jumping relatively long distances. Adults feed exclusively on blood with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. When not actively feeding, adult fleas often hide in locations frequented by the host animal such as your dog bedding, sofas, or carpeted areas.

The common cat and dog fleas breed throughout the year. After feeding and mating, the female deposits her eggs, usually on the host. Several eggs are laid daily and up to several hundred over a lifetime. Eggs normally fall off the host into bedding material or similar areas and hatch within two weeks.

Flea eggs accumulate in areas where the host spends most of its time. In addition, adult fleas defecate small pellets of digested blood which also drop off into the environment. A flea comb will often gather this fecal matter at the base of the tines providing a good sign of flea infestation. The combination of white flea eggs and black dried blood specks may appear as a sprinkling of salt and pepper where an infested animal has slept.

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis, that is, they pass through four developmental stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Immature fleas do not resemble adults at all.

Flea larvae are tiny, light colored, and, worm-like, without legs. They feed primarily on various debris and organic material including the droppings of the adults which contains digested blood. Flea larvae occur indoors and outdoors, wherever the eggs have fallen off the host. In houses, flea larvae live in carpeting, furniture, animal bedding and other protected areas with high humidity. Flea larvae also live outdoors in areas where animals spend time such as under porches in and around dog houses, etc.

Because flea larvae depend on the adult’s fecal pellets of dried blood as a food source, they cannot live in lawns or other outdoor areas unless the pet visits those areas enough to provide this food.

Depending on the species of flea and environmental conditions the larvae will pupate in one week to several months. The pupa is contained within a loose silken cocoon which is often covered by bits of debris. Under average conditions, the life cycle of the flea normally requires between 30 and 75 days but may take much longer. Adult fleas inside the cocoon, called pre-emerged fleas, will stay in that condition for weeks to months if no external cues from a host is available.

However, when disturbed by the presence of a host such as vibrations or carbon dioxide from exhaled breath, the fleas emerge simultaneously and attack the host. This is why it is possible to return to a house or apartment that has been empty for months and find it full of fleas.

When the normal host is available, fleas may feed several times a day but they are capable of surviving extended periods of starvation. In household situations, the normal host is a cat or dog. However, if the normal host is removed, starved fleas will readily seek other sources of blood and more often than not, man is the alternate host. In severe infestations, fleas will attack humans even though the normal host is present.

Certain species of fleas have been known to transmit such diseases as bubonic plague and murine typhus. These have never been a major problem. The major problems with fleas is as a nuisance pest of pets. The irritation and itching from flea bites results in scratching and potential secondary infection. Fleas may also transmit the double-pored dog tapeworm to dogs and cats.

Finally, persistent attacks from fleas can cause severe allergic responses in some people and pets. Once sensitized, a single flea bite may produce symptoms including hair loss, usually around the base of the tail, dermatitis, and intense itching. In worse cases, puppies and young kittens can also died from serious fleas infestations.

With proper flea management knowledge, flea problems will not be a big issue and can be battle and win over easily.

About the Author

Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of DogsObedienceTraining.com - The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.